Our Beloved Khwaja: Ghulam Sabir and Ghulam Waris Nizami

Joyous qawwali from Ajmer Sharif



I have only visited Ajmer, India’s, and arguably the sub-continent’s most revered Sufi pilgrimage site, once. It was a quick ‘look see’ en route from Pushkar to Jaipur and a visit that frustrated more than satisfied me.   For so long I’d heard fable stories of Ajmer. The city is as central to the spiritual universe of northern India’s Muslims as Jerusalem or Rome is to Christians and Jews.   And to have but an hour to rush around was criminal.

In terms of items on bucket lists, “spending more time in Ajmer” is right near the top. [As is spending about 6 months in Karachi, but that is another tale with nothing –at this stage—at all to do with music.]

One thing I did manage to do during the abbreviated visit was scoop up a number of mp3 collections of qawwali and naat from a couple of the souvenir…

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